24 January 2009

World Map Project (Part I)

I started this project in September. The objective was to create a space for, then draw, then paint, then label a map of the entire world on some public space in Belehede. When I pitched the idea to the parents, they loved it and gave their full support (see 1st & 2nd photos). We decided to use the outside school wall (see 2nd photo) and make the map 4 x 2 meters, (i.e. big).

I suggested that we could fund it - I would pay for the base paints and colors while the parents would pay for cement, sand and labor. They easily agreed. Later, I applied at the last minute for a grant from the American Embassy and got it, so that was great.

My original idea was to work closely with the teachers. Last year we had 6, this year there are 7 with only two returning. The new director let me explain the project to the group in October at the beginning of the school year. In this meeting I was hoping to get ideas on how to involve as many students as possible. I wanted to create a tentative schedule. I wanted creative feedback on how to make this work.

I explained that the best case scenario would be if we worked intensively with kids from grades 6 to 4 while somehow involving the three younger classes as well...

They asked questions about kids making mistakes - I explained that we would draw in pencil. They talked amongst themselves while I was taking - I alternatively paused and waited or intensified my voice and hand gestures. They wanted to wait and see how things went - I wanted feedback on the tentative plan: to have the 6th/5th grades draw and the 4th/ 3rds paint.

Well, by the end of the meeting we had decided that I would start working with the 6th graders at an unspecified time, one day, of the next week. On verra -we'll see. The new director (and the others teachers) make it pretty clear that students were NOT going to be able to do this. Are you a map maker? the director asked me. Otherwise, he was incredulous that the kids could/ should/ would be made to do this. You, band of good-for-nothings! - I've observed - is the director's favorite way to address the kids.

I had printed off a handbook from the Peace Corps website. Anyone could do this project in their own home if they wanted to since the directions are actually that straightforward and simple. All you would need is a ruler, a pencil and some paints. After creating the cement rectangle and painting it several times until it was light blue like the ocean - my counterpart and I draw a grid with 56 squares across and 28 down. Then we divided the rectangle again into 18 big sections. Section one, for example, starts with square 1-1 and goes to square 1-10 across and 1-12 down. One page in the handbook corresponds to section one and from there you see what needs to be drawn in square 3-8 or square 4-12, for example.

As the project moved along very slowly throughout the second half of October and into November I would come to the school early every morning to work with a different group of 6th grade students (about 65 total). They would usually show up at some point before classes so we were able to work pretty much every day. Still, they had a very hard time grasping the concepts. They did not intuitively understand the grid. They also had trouble scaling images up. I had to explain a few things everyday: the picture on the wall is bigger than the picture on the paper so every shape you draw needs to be bigger than the shape you're copying. Look at where the line starts. Is it the upper left-hand corner, the upper-right, the lower-right/left, or in one of the middles? Look at each square as if it were divided in four sections - in which section are you supposed to draw the shape?

Some kids weren't able to grasp any of the concepts - locating squares on the grid, copying lines and shapes, scaling up from the smaller images, connecting forms from one section to another, even moving from drawing in one square to drawing in another. Some kids couldn't even seem to make a shape. Others, though, eventually got the gist. They could be left to draw and make mistakes for a few minutes before I came over to check and correct them. One student, however, rose above all the others and frankly saved the never-ending "day". He was not from the village but actually the brother of the 1st grade teacher and therefore a very well-educated "city-kid". Sanou and his sister come from Bobo-Dialassou, the second largest and arguably most developed city in Burkina Faso. This child wound up drawing most (if not all) of Africa as well as much of South America. He was truly the only student who really understand how to draw the map and I told him he could come anytime he wanted to. Is it unbelievable that there wasn't even one village kid educated enough to honestly get it?

In any case, as I mentioned, progress was SLOW. Before we had finished even one continent, a teacher or the director would ask a question like, oh so you're not done yet? or, oh so you didn't work this morning? There was one day about a month after we had started when I picked up a pencil and took over for a few minutes. I drew a few lines myself to get the section done quickly. The director saw me and asked oh, so now its you who draws everything?

I worked exclusively with the 6th grade for the first month because they are the oldest school kids and for goodness sake there are 65 of them with only a handful understanding the process of drawing! When we finally got about 70% drawn (more than a month into working everyday on it) I felt I could move on to another grade. Even if we draw two squares every day of the next week, at this point we could feasibly and move onto the painting phase. Enough is enough!

The 5th grade has about 100 kids. We decided I would call one or two groups of 10 kids everyday for about a week. Every student would get one chance (and one only!) to participate. If she did not volunteer to draw something, too bad. If he did not show up, too late. Otherwise, since I did not expect much progress at this point, I also planned to do some quick geography lessons. What is this a picture of? Where is Africa? How many continents are there? Which ways are north, south, east and west? Most kids did not recognize the world map. Most could not point out Africa. Many couldn't name north, south, east and west. Some knew north in respect to Belehede (its that way!) but could not translate it to a map even if I explained, south is the opposite of north (that way and that way!) and on the map this is north so which way is south? Some of the biggest deficiencies in education here are the abilities to think critically and creatively. Many kids had trouble realizing that the picture in my right hand and the picture in my left were one in the same: a world map.

At this phase, there were not many surprises. Some of the 5th graders did indeed succeed in drawing something. That was great. But most just got a quick lesson. Others never showed up. But the biggest change for me was that at every session, the 5th grade teacher showed up. For the first time in over a month I finally had a Burkinabe educator at my side filling in the gaps of my lesson or my explications in French. While I had had the school director mentioning the shortcomings of my project periodically over the last two months - you are going to have to go over everything again; you'll have to make the lines darker; you must correct all those mistakes - finally one teacher was participating.

I decided to end the drawing phase with the 5th grade and wait until the school (and the teachers) went on break to start the painting of the map. Honestly, they had had two months of chances to "buy in" to the project: to make productive suggestions, to offer their students or class time, or to participate. The kind support of the one teacher cast into relief the apathy of the others. So I left village to celebrate Thanksgiving and announced to the parents and the community: Get ready because when I get back you and I, the old and the young, the women and the men and the kids will PAINT!

To be continued...

23 January 2009

Reeses Pieces Peanut Butter Cups

Volunteers love American candy. 

Ask a Burkina PCV to find M&Ms and he'll name the very aisle in the ex-pat supermarket that supplies them. If they are out of stock? He can probably also give a short list of American friends who stock up on sweets or at least tend to receive bountiful packages...*

So, when Reeses Pieces Peanut Butter Cups suddenly hit the Burkina Faso market, word got out - fast. It was sometime in October or November that these delectable turned out in gas stations and other stocked-up convenience shops. For these special imported goods one can expect to pay anywhere between two to six dollars. (We make $8 a day, just as a reference point, which many of us will happily spend on some fancy chocolate.) Naturally I wanted in on the sweet, nutty action... I can't believe it! how much do they cost? I said to my friend. 100 cfa!

That's about 20 cents

Funny how just before 31 million pounds of peanut butter and paste gets recalled, the  Burkinabé get the privilege of tasting their first Reeses Peanut Butter Cup.



* I'll prove it - Caleb, Liz, Me, Mac... see!? 

12 January 2009

PSSST!!

Harassment.

Where are you going? Where are you coming from? What are you doing? Where are you from?

Will you be my friend? Will you be my correspondent? Let's keep in contact. Let's exchange ideas. Let's exchange information.

What, no hello? What, no good morning? What, you don't even greet me? What, you don't stop to shake my hand? What, you just leave, like that?

Stop your bike. Stop right there. Stop. Hey. Come here. Hey, HEY come here. PSST. PSSSSSSST. White lady! White man! White men!

My friend! My darling! My auntie! My love!

Hello! Hello... HELLO! I am GREETING YOU!

These are things that usually men but also women will shout at you from any distance - simultaneously with other "friends" or one by one - as you move through the streets of Ouaga, Bobo, or any city in Burkina Faso. It doesn't matter if you are alone or with someone else, if you are turning left at a traffic light through three lanes of multi-vehicle traffic, if you are looking up, sideways, or straight ahead... People will touch you, grab your hand or arm, move slightly in your way while you're moving on a bike... They will pull their motorcycle up alongside you or stop on the side of the road. They will run across the street to hail you. They will waggle their arms like fous.*

And this list does not even take into account those who have a reason to be yelling at you - those who are trying to sell you something, trying to get you into their cab, trying to pull you over to look at their pagnes or their silver jewelry, to buy their tomatoes or sesame cakes... It also excludes the men who are trying to marry you, who want a white woman, who want you to bring them to the States...

It excludes kids incessantly asking for gifts and or money. You don't have a gift for me? You don't have a gift for me? You don't have a gift for me? Or kids calling out white man, ca va!? Even when you're a white woman. It excludes those not-rare-enough adults asking for gifts and/ or money as they go about their daily chores (particularly in touristy spots).

Let me be clear, there is no escaping it. And sometimes you want to rip your hair from its roots. But don't worry about me, you know that I know that the people here are great. (Heck, I am currently trying set up a third year!) Just not when... you're biking through downtown Ouaga during rush hour in the middle of the day's heat with a bag on your back, a man chasing after your bike, a moto sidling up beside you, a woman yelling at you across the street and a man screaming to know what aren't you greeting me?!

P.S. This blog message only applies if you are white.**

*A fou is a crazy person. Plural: fous.
**White is label used here to identify anyone who appears to be from Europe, America or anywhere else besides Africa. Light skinned Africans, rich Africans or African-Americans also risk being labeled white.

04 January 2009

Update 5 January 2009

Happy New Year! I posting this update from Lome, Togo where I will be on vacation with friends for the next few days. About two hours ago, I got off an awesome (NOT) sixteen hour bus ride on which I could not sit back on my seat without one of the two guys next to me leaning forward. I haven't sleep very much at all in the past week as I've been biking, hiking, traveling and site- seeing with a fantastic group of PCV and non-PCV friends. Buddies Julie, Megan and Sean made the long trip from America to West Africa just to see Burkina, Togo, Ghana and me. :) Thanks, friends!

Read on only if you're interested in a general update about the past few months...

July/August/September

A family of American missionaries returned to Belehede. Yes, returned. I knew that a family had lived there for a time, a few years ago... but the details were fuzzy. Now I know that three American children actually grew up in my village! Their parents worked to promote literacy and translate the Bible into Koranfe throughout the 1990s. Upon arrival, they built a house in Belehede - including tables, chairs, beds, solar panel electricity, a refrigerator, a stove, an oven... - and lived in it full time for years!They are great and I've learned a lot from them since they returned to Burkina to live full-time in Ouaga.

I gave up on Fulfulde. To be honest, I had stopped trying around April but it was hard to admit defeat. The people in my village are Korumba. They speak Fulfulde but their native tounge is Koranfe and they work hard to preserve and protect their (dying) language. Once I met the Belehede missionary father - who has devoted his life work to God and Koranfe - I finally made the decision to switch. I started getting tutoring in Koranfe at the end of September and so far I'm really happy about it.

I finished up the rainy season English club with an optional oral exam on the vocabulary we covered. I hope to do this club again next year but with a stronger focus on junior high and high school kids who are back home on school break. Kids learn English from junior high onward in Burkina.

I also started to work on the Peace Corps World Map Project. In September I got support from the local parents association to paint a map of the world on the outside school wall. We informed all appropriate members of the community and agreed to split the costs. Afterwards, I was able to raise money from the American Embassy to fund the entire project and can now reimburse my community members who paid for cement.

October/November/December

In October we cemented the outside school wall with a rectangle of 4 by 2 meters. After the start of school around mid-month, I began working with 6th grade students everyday to draw the map of the world. Eventually, I had 5th grade students draw some too.

In November we finished the pencil outline of the world.

I left site for a good chunk of time to celebrate Thanksgiving with a fun group of volunteers gathered chez my friend Yaneth in Dori, to assist with another training in Ouaga and to attend the Volunteer Action Committee meetings. I also starting looking into the possibility of extending my service for a third year.

Upon returning to site in December, I had 10 days to organize the painting of the World before I would leave for Christmas vacation. Upon arrival I worked to mobilize the community to paint the world map. I wanted a combination of women, men, girls and boys working side by side and in the end I got it. But I was very lucky - the American Ambassador paid us a visit the second day of painting the map. Without going into all the details right now, this attracted at least 50 participants (painters) and over 200 spectators to a World Map Painting/ American Embassador event! The Ambassador herself painted the majority of the United States including her home state of Wyoming. She also invited me to add my home so this map of the world will have all the major countries of the world, the village of Belehede, Burkina Faso, the state of Wyoming and the state of New Jersey. Ha!

Christmas was great here and I hope your holidays were festive and lovely too. I promise the few next posts will be stories... so I'll go ahead and start reflecting/ thinking now....

A bientot...