19 October 2007

Just Try to Blend In...

19 October 2007

This village has about 3000 residents and draws a crowd of probably 2000 people on the big 21-day marché*. On October 15, I realized that I was literally the only white person in a 2000-person market. Not only was I the only white person in Béléhédé's market that day, but also the only non-African. This market is a completely local phenomenon; there would be no reason for anyone to come if they didn't live within 50kilometers. When I thought it out, I realized I could say with almost complete certainty that I was the only non-black, non-West African person within at least a 22K radius, and excepting my friend David in Tongomayel, make that 40K. Within 22K I would also be by far the most educated; probably the only person to have ever been in a plane; certainly the only person never to have experienced extreme poverty within my extended family; probably the only one to have ever been to a movie theater or an amusement park; and certainly the only individual with a gmail address.

Just some perspective.


*Béléhédé, my village, has a market every three days and each Monday. When these two markets collide every 21 days, there is a BIG market - le vingt-et-un marché.

17 October 2007

Tuesday Morning

17 October 2007

I went for a run yesterday around 9am. It was a real treat to be listening to a great song on my ipod which is filled with a random sampling of my brother's music. I only get a chance to charge the device every two weeks on average, so far, so when I heard to kids calling behind me, I ignored them. Well they were still there when I looked back a minute later and even after greeting them, they carried on behind me.

My plan was to run a little more than 2K to the hill with intermittent phone service. If I was lucky, I'd be able to check my text messages. When I got to the top of hill, I turned off my headset and looked back. Two kids were climbing up right behind me. After another minute or two I had six panting, 8-11 year-old girls (my neighbors) next to me while I turned on my phone.

Of course I couldn't get service. I held my arm up high and stood on my toes. I walked to the left, the girls walked to the left. I walked to backwards, forwards, and to the right; they followed back, forth, to the right.

So much for my plan. But since I had gathered a following, I figured I'd give the girls their money's worth. I let them off to get a drink of water*, lined them up double arms distance, and gave them a quick introduction to boxing.

Then I told the girls I would be going home so they picked up their flip flops and we ran back to village together. We were all keeping a similar, modest pace - me in my running sneakers and the girls on their bare-foot, 10 year-old feet.


*Actually it was stagnant, dirty water collected in a small pool on the rock hill but I know I couldn't stop villagers from drinking this even if I tried. Plus, considering the fact that these kids would be running behind me no matter what, I preferred that they hydrate.

05 October 2007

A Vampire? Maybe?

5 October, 2007
Last night I had an unwelcome visitor.

First I heard a nearby flapping sound which woke me up. In gauging nighttime terrors and threats I think in terms of the worst possible thing. So I thought, at least this sounds bigger than a cockroach... Second, I simultaneously grab my glasses (to the left) and my flashlight/ weapon (to the right). Third, I wield my light and assess the situation. Ah ha! I was right, it is not a cockroach! But... Oh-My-God... it is flying, bigger than my hand, and INSIDE my mosquito net! I dive out of bed to the right breaking the seal of the tucked-in net and run screaming and slapping myself into the living room.

It was a bat.

I examined the net for holes or entry points. That night I found nothing out-of-the ordinary, no rips or tears, and decided to leave the bat trapped. I'll ask someone for help in the morning. So I pitched my tent and slept under the stars. When I woke up at 5:30 (as usual) the bat was gone, there were no holes in my net, and my creepy bed-mate had left no trace.

What do you think, should I start sleeping with a wooden stake?